Tuesday, November 17, 2015

11/16/2015 ,11/17/2015 Beaufort, SC

 11/16/2015   To 32 31.800N,  80 24.768W,   Ashepoo River       ?? NM

After a quick run to Saffron for bread Monday morning, we slid over to the fuel dock for a pump out before heading out.  It got a bit congested as 3 boats arrived at the marina around 0800 for their reserved slips.  Interesting in that check out time is 1100, and the marina is usually full.  One boat thought they saw an open slip, only to realize at the last minute it wasn't empty.  Lot of hard backing since the current was starting to run.  When I spoke to the dock guy, he said it's a persistent issue, especially during snow bird season.  The harbor is relatively small, so there isn't a lot of space for folks to maneuver, either coming or going, especially when the current runs.

We made the 0930 Wappoo Bridge opening, and glad we weren't in the herd at 0900, the first opening after the 0630-0900 restriction.  We shot out Elliots Cut doing 8.8 -  nice while it lasted, but soon we were going uphill when the river deviated from the ICW.  It was one of those days, depending on which way the current flowed, we either moved right along or slowed to 4kts.  The good part was having high water to pass all but one of the shoal areas on the stretch toward Beaufort.  With 6' of tide, it wasn't white knuckle day.  At low tide it would be touch and go, literally, with 5-6' in places and no room for error.

A ship and repair facility on the Wadmalaw River
After passing through Fenwick Cut, we turned downstream to anchor for the night in the Ashepoo River, rather than tempt fate at the last shoal with the tide low and dropping.  The river was running over 2 kts and the water gurgled past the hull once we were anchored.  At low tide, a large pod of dolphins swam along the river bank, catching dinner.  Other than the gurgling of the current, it was a quiet night.

11/17/15    To 32 25.736N,   80 41.647W    Beaufort, SC anchorage    20.4NM

Boat parade just entering the Ashepoo Coosaw Cutoff
We considered taking an alternate, down stream route, in the morning to avoid the last shoal, but after reading  comments on Active Captain (don't trust charted depths, etc.,) we waited until 0830 to have a rising  half tide to head for the Ashepoo Coosaw Cut, joining a parade of 7 like minded others.  Life is easier when you aren't in a herd.  One of the first boats ran out a jib - fine, but not so great going dead down wind through a cut.  Maybe he didn't realize that a backed jib acts like a brake, slowing you down,  as well as those behind you.  He couldn't keep it filled, but didn't seem to want to furl it either.  ARGH!

Once out on the Coosaw River, we ran out our jib, as did most of the others, but we were the only one not motor sailing, happy to let the herd go on their way.  We sailed most of the way to Beaufort, rolling in the jib when we realized with a bit of motoring, we could make the 1230 Ladies Island swing bridge opening. 

We dropped the anchor just outside the mooring field buoys, having opted to not pick up a marina mooring.  The current was switching, and with the moorings fairly closely spaced, we watched as those on moorings, mostly over 40', shifted closer together than ideal.  One finally moved to a different mooring to keep from bumping.

A portion of the St. Helena Episcopal Church cemetery in Beaufort
After lunch we went ashore for a treat and a walk.  Beaufort is the 2nd oldest town in SC, and unlike many southern towns, came through the Civil War more or less unscathed.  While there are some big houses, rivaling those in Charleston, the historic area has beautiful, but many are more modest.  We found a nice, waterfront place for sale, but the phone link came up with an error message.  We did locate the property advertised in the real estate office for $1.5M, beyond our budget!

$1.5M for this unique waterfront home in Beaufort
Formal garden at the 'Castle' in Beaufort
Another beautiful garden at the Dr. George Mosse Stoney House in Beaufort
Showers, forming offshore, were forecast to bring light rain ashore, and we timed things almost to the minute.  We were lashing the dinghy back on deck when the sprinkles arrived.  It sprinkled off and on during the evening, but the forecast was for some sun in the morning before the arrival of rain and thunderstorms ahead of the cold front, giving us time to position the boat to be tucked in while it passed.  On radar the front line presented a nasty looking slash of green, yellow and red, with moisture feeding in from the gulf.  Time to take a closer look at the chart.

Tying 'on the hip' to get the Eva Marie into the dock
While anchored at Beaufort we saw TowboatUS bring 2 boats into the marina.  The first was Eva Marie, a large sailboat, which required a special bridge opening (commercial traffic get on demand openings).  Once clear, the tow boat needed to get his boat 'on the hip' to get  into the dock - a bit tricky with the current running and a stiff wind.  Then around 2100 I saw strange 'head lights' and couldn't tell if there were on the water or shore.  Next time I checked, a tow boat was approaching the mooring field with a good sized power boat under tow.  It was too dark to see how he got the boat into the dock - some folks must have had a bad day.

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