3/5/16 Nassau Yacht Haven Slip 4A
First off, a correction. The lizard I labeled an iguana in Bill Baggs State Park is a monitor lizard, an aggressive, non-native species that can grow up to 5' - not to be messed with! Paige, Thanks for the correction.
Note: Panoramic photos tend to look a bit distorted from what we actually see, more so than when we 'stitch' photos together
As forecast Saturday, the wind was blowing out of the E 15-20 and it was mostly cloudy. We were happy with our plan to stick around for the day rather than have a 30NM beat to reach the first cays in the Exuma chain. Having done Nassau the day before, we walked over the bridge to Paradise Island, the posh resort area across from us.
Once across the bridge, there was an upscale shopping area, great
for window shopping, and an upscale version of a Straw Market,
labeled as Bahama Craft Centre which we skipped. While the beach
has limited public access, there are a couple of public accesses
available to those of us not staying at one of the resorts, so we
headed for the closest one. Paradise Island has several lagoons as
well as the entrance into the Atlantis complex marina in the
middle. At one, there was a park dock where a couple were feeding
the ducks and turtles. We watched as the critters snatched up the
tidbits - there were an amazing number of turtles, somewhat hard to
see due to the murkiness of the water.
With the weather looking a bit more threatening, we decided to head
back to the boat rather than go tour the Atlantis complex. They do
have a beautiful natural aquarium that is accessible to the public
(as is the casino) that we saw a number of years ago. It started to
sprinkle when we got to the bridge, and after ducking under the
porch at the police station, we decided we wouldn't melt, and headed
across.
It was windy at the top of the bridge! A good 25kts from the E, enough to hang on to our hats. We made made a quick stop at the market stalls at Potter's Island to pick up some sapodillas, a native fruit, and some green local bananas. Since it looked like it would rain for a while, we headed back to the marina, arriving just in time for a down pour. We ducked into the laundry and waited, wishing we'd made it back few minutes earlier. We'd shut the boat up, but both hatches were cracked for air flow. With the rain coming down sideways, we'd be lucky if it didn't blow under the dinghy and get our bunk damp.
Unfortunately the closest weather radar was at Freeport - don't know why Nassau airport doesn't have one available, so we couldn't check to see how long the rain would last. We're spoiled by having instant access to radar available in the states. It did let up for a minute (we weren't ready to dash) and commenced to bucket down for another 15 minutes. At the next slight break we were off, enough of this standing around! Much to my surprise, our bunk was dry. It must have dumped a couple of inches in about 30 minutes.
Neither of us were enamored with the showers at the marina. Both heads had 2 showers, but no privacy other the actual shower curtain, so you dressed (and undressed) in full view of anyone using the toilets - a bit exposed since the toilets were beyond the showers. Leonard realized he could hook up our hose to the boat and bypass our tanks - we could take showers aboard. While we could have used our tank water and refilled the tank, the marina has city water, not RO, and not quite up to US standards. This way we didn't deplete our tank and had privacy - our shower is wonderful!
I did a quick load of laundry while we had dinner. With the humidity around 90%, I wasn't overly surprised when the clothes were still somewhat damp when the dryer was done. I'd have gotten another token, but the office was closed, so we strung a line in the cabin, hoping things were eventually dry.
3/6/16-3/7/16 To and at 24 44.803N, 76 50.270W Anchorage at Allans Cays 33.1NM
Sunday's weather forecast a morning calm ahead of the northerlies approaching the area arriving about 1400. With 30 some NM to go to Allans Cays, we walked to the Fresh Market for last minute items (less for more, further down the chain), before we departed. The light wind also made it easier to take on fuel on our way out the harbor. With everything filled up and topped off, we were underway before 1100.
We arrived at Allans Cays around 1630 and picked a spot off Leaf
Cay, along with 10 other boats. We were glad we beat the last boat,
giving us a bit more choice as to where to drop the hook. It was a
bit lumpy, even with the land and reef protection, thanks to the N
wind, currents (and cross currents) that flow through the various
cuts. Our anchor stayed set at 2000 rpm, allowing us to swing free
of reefs and vessels. We settled in for what looked to be a less
than peaceful night with the anchor alarm set.
After 1930, someone flashed a light on us - never a good sign. Neither were the voices that seemed too close. We popped out of the cabin to find the trimaran that had anchored later between us and a large catamaran drifting down on our bow in the current switch against the wind. Ouch! Leonard fired up the engine to back us away while they hauled anchor. They eventually reset their anchor, well away from us. Meanwhile, our anchor alarm went off, another false alarm, don't know if it's caused by loss of GPS coverage or what. It was frustrating (and poor seamanship) that the trimaran never turned on running lights, making it difficult to see where they were maneuvering. The big cat turned on their underwater lights and we turned on our fore deck light to make sure we were visible until he was anchored (also making it easier for us to see we hadn't moved since we'd anchored).
We settled back in for a somewhat restless night. With the wind generator whirring, power wasn't a problem, so we left the instruments on to check the wind speed. After midnight, Leonard finally turned the wind generator off since the batteries were overcharging. At 0600, the alarm sounded again even though we were within 90' of the anchor (alarm setting was 140')- another false alarm.
The forecast called for the wind to blow 15-20 kts with gusts until the weekend, but clocking into the NE then E, providing us better protection both at Allans Cays and along the island chain as we head S. There are few places in the Exumas that have protection from N, W or S since the prevailing trade winds are easterly.
We'll start on our way S Tuesday, island hopping as we go. With the wind in the E, the islands provide us with smooth sailing on the bank. It would be nice to have lighter winds to cross the 'Wide Opening' which is exactly what the name implies, and can be a bit wild when the wind's up due to numerous shoals. There are a number of good anchorages we like before we get there.
We hope to pick up a mooring for a few days at the Exuma Land and Sea Park (S of the Wide Opening). You can put your name on the mooring waiting list at Warderick Wells 1 day in advance which allows everyone an reasonable chance to get a mooring near the park headquarters or by Emerald Rock within a few days. While the N harbor is a good place to sit out a front, it's also nice to be there in good weather when it's easier to snorkel.
First off, a correction. The lizard I labeled an iguana in Bill Baggs State Park is a monitor lizard, an aggressive, non-native species that can grow up to 5' - not to be messed with! Paige, Thanks for the correction.
Note: Panoramic photos tend to look a bit distorted from what we actually see, more so than when we 'stitch' photos together
As forecast Saturday, the wind was blowing out of the E 15-20 and it was mostly cloudy. We were happy with our plan to stick around for the day rather than have a 30NM beat to reach the first cays in the Exuma chain. Having done Nassau the day before, we walked over the bridge to Paradise Island, the posh resort area across from us.
 |
| Looking East from the top of the bridge - Antares is hidden behind Potters Cay and the local freighters |
 |
| White-cheeked pintail |
 |
| Turtles in the lagoon |
Apparently, being a Saturday, we were between 'break weeks'. The
beach had relatively few people on it, although we did see one group
of 'breakers', easily identified by their cans of Kalik in hand at
1030. Our legs got quite a work out in the soft sand and somewhat
steep angle to the water. We headed E until we ran into the private
property sign at the Ocean Club Estates. Theoretically we should
able able to walk between the high water mark and the water, but
we'd been keeping an eye on some dark clouds W of Nassau most of the
morning. It was difficult to determine which way the clouds were
moving in the brisk E wind, but it looked like they were slowly
edging toward us.
 |
| Looking E on the beach at Paradise Island |
 |
| Leonard checking the cell phone in the shade |
There aren't a lot of choices of roads on Paradise, and we were
looking for a connection to Paradise Island Drive to check out the
Versailles Gardens and the Cloister before we headed back to the
marina. Both are unique (and posted as private), located on either
side of the road, covering most of the width of the island, and
appear to be part of the One and Only Ocean Club. We toured them
anyway, along with a number of other folks.
 |
| Looking toward the Cloister from the Versailles Gardens |
 |
| Water lily in a pond at the Versailles Gardens |
It was windy at the top of the bridge! A good 25kts from the E, enough to hang on to our hats. We made made a quick stop at the market stalls at Potter's Island to pick up some sapodillas, a native fruit, and some green local bananas. Since it looked like it would rain for a while, we headed back to the marina, arriving just in time for a down pour. We ducked into the laundry and waited, wishing we'd made it back few minutes earlier. We'd shut the boat up, but both hatches were cracked for air flow. With the rain coming down sideways, we'd be lucky if it didn't blow under the dinghy and get our bunk damp.
Unfortunately the closest weather radar was at Freeport - don't know why Nassau airport doesn't have one available, so we couldn't check to see how long the rain would last. We're spoiled by having instant access to radar available in the states. It did let up for a minute (we weren't ready to dash) and commenced to bucket down for another 15 minutes. At the next slight break we were off, enough of this standing around! Much to my surprise, our bunk was dry. It must have dumped a couple of inches in about 30 minutes.
Neither of us were enamored with the showers at the marina. Both heads had 2 showers, but no privacy other the actual shower curtain, so you dressed (and undressed) in full view of anyone using the toilets - a bit exposed since the toilets were beyond the showers. Leonard realized he could hook up our hose to the boat and bypass our tanks - we could take showers aboard. While we could have used our tank water and refilled the tank, the marina has city water, not RO, and not quite up to US standards. This way we didn't deplete our tank and had privacy - our shower is wonderful!
I did a quick load of laundry while we had dinner. With the humidity around 90%, I wasn't overly surprised when the clothes were still somewhat damp when the dryer was done. I'd have gotten another token, but the office was closed, so we strung a line in the cabin, hoping things were eventually dry.
3/6/16-3/7/16 To and at 24 44.803N, 76 50.270W Anchorage at Allans Cays 33.1NM
Sunday's weather forecast a morning calm ahead of the northerlies approaching the area arriving about 1400. With 30 some NM to go to Allans Cays, we walked to the Fresh Market for last minute items (less for more, further down the chain), before we departed. The light wind also made it easier to take on fuel on our way out the harbor. With everything filled up and topped off, we were underway before 1100.
 |
| Sunday small boat race at Nassau Yacht Club |
The wind gradually filled in as we headed SE allowing us to sail.
Before long, we were putting reefs in the main and then rolling in
some jib and still doing between 6-7kts down wind. A great sail.
We crossed the Yellow Bank, seeing several black spots indicating
coral heads as we went, but with plenty of water under the keel. It
can be difficult to differentiate clouds from coral heads with
scattered clouds, until you realize the cloud shadows move across
the surface and the coral heads don't.
 |
| Looking N from Antares at the anchorage at Allans Cays - a shoal runs down the middle (left of the trawler and cat), with another shoal N of the cay. Note: On these reduced pictures, the spacing looks much greater than it really is. |
After 1930, someone flashed a light on us - never a good sign. Neither were the voices that seemed too close. We popped out of the cabin to find the trimaran that had anchored later between us and a large catamaran drifting down on our bow in the current switch against the wind. Ouch! Leonard fired up the engine to back us away while they hauled anchor. They eventually reset their anchor, well away from us. Meanwhile, our anchor alarm went off, another false alarm, don't know if it's caused by loss of GPS coverage or what. It was frustrating (and poor seamanship) that the trimaran never turned on running lights, making it difficult to see where they were maneuvering. The big cat turned on their underwater lights and we turned on our fore deck light to make sure we were visible until he was anchored (also making it easier for us to see we hadn't moved since we'd anchored).
We settled back in for a somewhat restless night. With the wind generator whirring, power wasn't a problem, so we left the instruments on to check the wind speed. After midnight, Leonard finally turned the wind generator off since the batteries were overcharging. At 0600, the alarm sounded again even though we were within 90' of the anchor (alarm setting was 140')- another false alarm.
The forecast called for the wind to blow 15-20 kts with gusts until the weekend, but clocking into the NE then E, providing us better protection both at Allans Cays and along the island chain as we head S. There are few places in the Exumas that have protection from N, W or S since the prevailing trade winds are easterly.
 |
| Looking S from Leaf Cay toward Highborne Cay (upper left) Antares anchored at the right |
Around noon, the wind had clocked enough to the NE making it
possible to go ashore, so we launched the dinghy, this time with me
cranking it up and Leonard controlling the dinghy over the lifelines
and out over the water - when it's windy I have trouble hanging on
to it. Worked petty good.
 |
| Beach on the E side of Leaf Cay |
We hiked around the S end of the island to the beach, then across to
some ruins. Someone built a house here, but all that remains now
are the cement floor, walls and a number of stone slabs that serve
as a path. We saw a number of the local iguanas (only found here)
who are accustomed to being fed, thus amble up looking expectant.
The cruise ships bring boat loads of visitors on go fast boats for a
tour, who invariably feed them, as do others, although signs are
posted prohibiting it. Sometimes the big ones can be a bit
intimidating. Although another dinghy went ashore, we were the only
ones on the beach. It must have been too windy for the cruise ship
tours, making for a quiet morning.
 |
| A big iguana by the ruins on Leaf Cay |
A number of the boats who'd been anchored departed during the
morning, and I expect we'll have fewer here tonight. It will be a
while before there's another weather window for boats to cross from
the states, or leave Nassau. We're at the tail end of the boats
that crossed before the wind switched. Heading back to the states
isn't much easier, it's down wind, but 20-25kts of wind with any
northerly component is the recipe for a nasty gulf stream crossing,
leaving a number of folks parked at one end or the other, waiting
for another break in the weather.
We'll start on our way S Tuesday, island hopping as we go. With the wind in the E, the islands provide us with smooth sailing on the bank. It would be nice to have lighter winds to cross the 'Wide Opening' which is exactly what the name implies, and can be a bit wild when the wind's up due to numerous shoals. There are a number of good anchorages we like before we get there.
We hope to pick up a mooring for a few days at the Exuma Land and Sea Park (S of the Wide Opening). You can put your name on the mooring waiting list at Warderick Wells 1 day in advance which allows everyone an reasonable chance to get a mooring near the park headquarters or by Emerald Rock within a few days. While the N harbor is a good place to sit out a front, it's also nice to be there in good weather when it's easier to snorkel.
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