Conception Island

3/28/16 - 3/30/16   To 23 51.131N,    75 07.239W    45.5 NM

After listening to the net Monday morning, we picked up the outboard and dinghy before heading out the S end of Elizabeth Harbor.  We weren't alone, Seven Js', a 165' yacht from the Marshall Islands joined a bunch of us 'little' boats, some heading to Long Island, some to Cat Island and 4 of us (along with Seven Js') to Conception. 

The boats behind us leaving Elizabeth Harbor

We ran up the main before heading out, and had enough wind for a nice sail for several hours.  When the boat speed dropped to 2.5, we turned the key and motor sailed most of the way to the N end of Long Island.  We could see a series of light showers drifting down from the clouds by Long Island, and we  thought we might get a much needed fresh water rinse, but the showers went to either side of us, and we got just enough rain to dampen the decks and raise the humidity level.  Once the showers passed, the wind filled in from the SE (after a few puffs from the N) and we had a great sail the rest of the way to Conception with a steady 12kt SE breeze, rolling through a 3' easterly swell.  One of those aha moments, this is why we do this!  Best of all, a large group of dolphins had joined us as we approached Long Island - that's the second spotting this trip.

Dolphins swimming in front of the boat on the way to Conception

One of the dolphins surfacing 

We arrived at the anchorage to find a fleet of vessels at anchor, the most we've ever seen here, including  the Seven Js' - we've never been here with a yacht of this size in the past.  There was plenty of room, so we picked a spot and dropped the hook.  It's interesting to see how far a swell can work behind what looks like good wind protection, and we had a bit of swell providing a gentle rocking motion, not unlike a cradle.

The motor yacht "Seven Js' "

In the morning, we watched the crew of Seven Js' transport a tent, multiple chairs and several large swan floats ashore in a large RIB.  Apparently they picked the wrong beach, as they were busy moving everything to the next beach S.  They seemed to have a number of toys, 2 jet skis, 2 paddle boards and 2 swan floats, which was a good thing since it looked like a group of kids on spring break. Not sure how most kids could score a spring break like this, but they were well behaved while having a good time.

After checking with the Reuters who were having a quiet morning, we went ashore for a hike.  In the past there's been a short path to a N facing beach, and then a bit more rigorous trail that goes to a long E facing beach, involving a couple of ropes and a trail along top of the cliffs.  As we crossed over to the little beach, we noticed a huge flock (or whatever you call a large group of butterflies) feeding and flitting on white flowering plants.  Between the bright sunlight and dark glasses, we had trouble seeing anything on the screen in the camera (a problem we had all day) but took a bunch of pictures hoping we'd have enough to identify the species.  There were 2 - the common buckeyes out numbered orange gulf fritillaries by a large percentage.

A couple of pictures of some of numerous 

Common Buckeye butterflies gathering nectar

Last year's hurricane devastated Rum Island and Long Island when it sat just offshore for a number of days, hammering the islands.  It took a toll at Conception too.  A chunk of first the headland was missing, and served as a warning for what was to come.  On the last trip, other than needing ropes to climb a couple of cliffs, the trail meandered along the cliffs and eventually over to a long E facing beach.  This year the edges of the cliffs had collapsed, turning the hike into a ropes and rocks course.  

Looking E on the N side of Conception -
 the trail and 1st rope start beyond the small pond

Looking W toward the Southampton Reef extending to the N

Pond in the interior northern part of the island - it does not appear to join the lagoon system

We were also hampered by a large crop of sand burrs when we weren't scrambling over rocks and boulders.  We made it.  It was noon when we reached the beach and with no shade in sight, we only walked about half the beach (mostly boring sand) wanting to get out of the sun.  What we did see was a 3+' shark swimming along the breaking waves of the beach.

Shark patrolling the surf line of the beach

The hike back wasn't any shorter, nor were there fewer sand burrs.  While the toes on our crocks protected our feet, we stopped often, trying to scrape them off on rocks.  The downside of crocs is that the burrs need to be completely removed, or they can work their way through the sole and stick from the inside.  I spent over an hour, picking them out with a tweezers.  Leonard said we wouldn't doing that hike again any time soon.

Lynnea descending the second rope

Later in the afternoon we took the dinghy out to the Southampton Reef that extends about 4NM off the NW end of the island.  I wasn't sure about snorkeling since we'd seen a 3+' barracuda stalking us the last time we were here.  Supposedly the smaller ones are okay, but this was big and spooky, and we  heard someone had been bitten  by a barracuda in Georgetown.  Another couple was doing a reef drift from their dinghy, peering over the sides with masks and snorkels.  When we spoke, they'd seen a big barracuda that had them scrambling back into their dinghy.  We opted to hang over the edge too, and just as Leonard was considering going into the water, he saw a good sized shark.  So much for dangling body parts overboard!  It was interesting, and a bit disconcerting, to drift over the huge coral heads just inches below our faces. The corals on the reef are huge, rising some 20' from the bottom to breaking at the top at low tide  We did see a few, but not many fish.  Some of the corals were slowly regrowing, much of this huge reef had become sand covered and dead, so it was interesting to see areas where different corals were thriving once again.

Tuesday evening we joined the Reuters and another couple aboard Imanja for sun downers.  Gary Kreiger and his crew, Niamh, had sailed over Monday from Georgetown with us on "Freed Spirit", his Caliber 40.  We had a fun evening trading sailing stories.  We may catch up with Freed Spirit again, they headed back to Georgetown to pick up guests, and he was considering going to Long Island, our next stop.

3/30-3/31/16   To  23 50.810N,    75 07.249W    Conception Island    .3 NM

 A number of boats departed early Wednesday morning, so we decided to re-anchor a bit closer to shore and the entrance to the lagoon we planned to explore.  It also gave the batteries a bit of a charge since the wind wasn't blowing a steady 15, and provided us with some hot water.  There had been 17 or 18 boats  anchored here Monday night, but that number dropped to 8 by Wednesday morning. 

Wednesday afternoon we joined the Reuters, taking our dinghies down to the lagoon in the center of Conception a bit before high tide to go exploring.  It was a 2NM dinghy ride to the entrance, and similar to Shroud Cay, best entered on a rising tide.  The lagoon, known for its turtles, and has 'tagging events' when the turtles are caught and tagged to track them for scientific studies. The lagoon only has one entrance, and even with the water up, it required dodging rocks and sand bars at the entrance while timing our arrival with the incoming swell.  Once inside, the water was calmer making it easier to see the deeper channels.  We saw a couple of oyster catchers feeding along the shore, several turtles, some fish, and what I think were GBH flying in the distance as we navigated several of the channels. 

Oyster catcher with a shell in its beak

Active Captain mentioned the possibility of hiking up to the light, but the water was too shallow for us to get close to the hill.  Several other dinghies arrived behind us, including the jet skis from the Seven Js', but for the most part, we had our portion of the lagoon to ourselves.  We spent a good hour exploring, knowing we wanted to be back outside before the water got too low and we might have possible issues with the breaking swell.  We had no problems other than timing the swell as we exited.  It could be very interesting if the wind and current were opposing.  We were surprised to find swell breaking on a headland about half way back to the boat, causing confused wave patterns and some breaking waves - we hadn't noticed it when we'd gone past earlier.

The Reuters exploring the lagoon

Bette and I were dropped off at the S end of the long beach by the anchorage for a walk along the beach while the guys headed back to the boats.  An osprey called from the top of a dead palm tree as we walked past.  In the Bahamas there seems to be a mocking bird every where we go, repeating each song 3 times before introducing a new one, but not a lot of other birds.  While we heard a number of song birds on Stocking Island, they were impossible to spot in the foliage, and I couldn't identify them by their song.  I was surprised to see swallows swooping overhead catching bugs as we walked along the beach, and at dusk I spotted a lone GBH standing at the edge of the water.   

This handsome creature joined us in the cabin just before dinner -
the species isn't on my identifier, but was a good 4"

Friday we'll head down to Thompson's Point on Long Island to spend a few days.  Unfortunately, the Long Island Breeze, the resort that provided a dinghy dock has closed, so no cheerful morning net by Mike with local announcements, weather and news, or place to leave a dinghy, get ice cream, a drink or a meal out in Salt Pond.  It was a favorite cruiser's hang out.  Fortunately there is a dock near the grocery store that's been made available (the privilege not to be abused), the beach and a small harbor where we've landed dinghies in the past.

We've been keeping tabs on the weather via our SSB receiver and Chris Parker's early morning forecasts.  We should have light winds, although perhaps more southerly than we'd like, before what may be a bit of weather that arrives Sunday due to complex weather systems organizing up in the states. Different weather models don't agree as to how things will shake out.  Most of the cold fronts have dissipated by the time they've arrived this far south since we've gotten to the Exumas, although the Abacos, further N, haven't been as lucky.

Lynnea

Still More of Stocking Island and Georgetown

3/24/16    Sand Dollar

Thursday morning, since it wasn't as windy as it had been, the Reuters dinghied to Georgetown to do laundry and restock their larder, and we headed ashore before lunch to walk on the beach and hike up to the Monument.  We wanted to hike up the 'gentle' slope, further N on the beach, rather than attempt the 'steep' sand bank approach (far easier to slide down than climb) to the Monument, and since I was enjoying looking at what the tide had washed in along the beach, we'd do the Monument trail on the way back.  We made it to the last cairn on the trail, atop one of the hills overlooking the sound, and with neither trail nor more beaches in sight, headed back, we'd gone as far N as we could without bush whacking.

Looking N toward Conch Cut from the end of  the trail on Stocking Island

We were further from Monument hill than we realized when we took the side trail marked 'Monument" by the stone wall, and had to negotiate several sand dunes before we got to the final climb up to the Monument.  The view from the top was impressive.  It's always a bit surprising to see the flat, swampy area just below Monument hill to the W,  a mud flat, with the potential to be wonderful mosquito habitat, one of the reasons we prefer the anchorage off Sand Dollar.  Leonard commented the water looked calmer at that anchorage than at Sand Dollar where waves seemed to find a way to wrap around the end of the island.  Sliding down the 'steep' path was similar to skiing on snow, only filling your shoes with fine sand instead snow.  It was close to 1700 when we got back to the boat.  After dinner we headed to Imanja for a game of Mexican Train dominoes.  We'd planned on playing for an hour, but it was closer to 2, and we still far from finished with the game.

Hurricane holes on Stocking Island as seen from the Monument

Looking S along Stocking Island and down to flats by Monument Beach 

Looking down the 'steep' route to the Monument
(photo looses the perspective - it was straight down)

3/25-26/16    23 30.299N    75 45.866W    Regatta Point, Georgetown    1.2NM

Friday morning we picked up our anchor and headed to Regatta Point to be in position for an early run to the market for groceries before catching the free, 1030 ride to the Prime Island Meats Saturday.  We hoped to find a convenient spot to drop the hook since a lot of boats had headed back to Stocking Island since town was closed for Good Friday.  We did, right next to the yellow sailboat from Australia where we'd been anchored before. 

Being Good Friday, nothing was happening in town except practice races for the Junior Regatta.  We dinghied into to town to fill our solar shower and take a walk - for once, traffic wasn't a problem!  Back at the boat, we watched the junior sailors run practice races not far from the boat.  One of the boats capsized, and unlike the FJ's used by the junior sailors at LCYC (easy to right and bail), this boat required a tow to the beach and some work to get it upright and bailed out.  They ran a final race, and we watched as the boats sailed back past us, heading into the harbor.  Racing is serious business down here, and can be great fun to watch.  The Family Island Regatta (with multiple classes of big boats) will take place the 3rd week in April, and is a huge event, with participants from all the family islands participating  and competing for top honors.

Three of the Jr Sailors heading into Kidds Cove

Easter weekend is interesting in the islands.  I'm not sure how much of the long weekend (Friday - Monday) is Easter and how much is traditional island's holiday.  Everything was closed for Good Friday, Saturday most businesses were open (I recall shorter business hours in past years), and to my surprise, the Exuma Market would be open on Easter morning for their normal, abbreviated hours, with everything shuttered again on Monday.  The main event this year was the junior regatta, an inter-island event, with races both Sunday and Monday.

We wanted to take on water.  Although we've stretched the 2 side tanks to 10 + days rather than the usual 7, and still had the full bow tank, we were down to 1/2 tank on port side. Our choices for getting into a dock to take on water or fuel are far and few between this far S.  We can use the marina at Georgetown (shallow water and open to the wind and waves),  Emerald Bay 10NM N of Georgetown, Staniel or Highborne Cays back up the Exuma chain, or lug water or fuel to the boat in jerry cans (which we don't have).  Friday the wind had moderated to under 10 kts in the afternoon, making it ideal for going into the dock, but everything was closed. 

Saturday morning, the trade winds were back at a steady 15kts from the E.  High tide was around noon, giving us ample of water to get to and from the dock, but since I planned to go to the meat market, we'd have to wait until we got back to the boat before going into the dock.  As expected, no one was around when we walked over before going out to the boat, and we couldn't raise anyone by cell phone or VHF before going to the dock (this IS the islands...), so we hauled anchor, threaded our way through the numerous vessels anchored nearby, approached the dock, and did a 180 to dock into the wind.  This seemed easier, or at least less worrisome, before we had the boat painted.  We did a class A docking, no part of the hull touched the dock until I got the spring line tied  around a piling, with a fender at the piling (and we were bow out for an easy departure).  Phew.  We took on 47 gallons of water and 9.9 gallons of diesel (both last topped off in Nassau 3 weeks ago), now we were good to go cruising without worrying either water or fuel.

The trip to the meat market had been successful too.  Apparently enough cruisers called requesting a pickup before next Friday, that the owner deemed it worth his while to do a Saturday pickup in town.  The truck was full - a good deal for the cruisers and the meat market folks.  I don't know how they do it, the meat is comparable to what we get at home, both in quality and price, much nicer(and less expensive) than what's available in the markets in town.  The freezer is once again full, so I don't need to invent 'creative cuisine' using whatever I might find on board.  This trip the veggies (when fresh off the boat) have been nicer and more varied (for a price), than what I recall from our last trip down this way.

With both water and fuel tanks full, we debated heading back to Stocking Island for the night, but getting the laundry done was also on the list, and the spot where we'd been anchored was still open (we ended up less than 15' from our previous position).  We've been wearing the same sets of clothes - a salty pair of shorts and tee shirt for going ashore, and a 'clean' (unsalty) set for below.  Although we rinse the tee shirts when we shower, the salty set was salty enough to never feel dry, especially the shorts, and it was time for clean sheets and towels. The trick was to wash everything and get it back to the boat without getting it salty going back to the boat (I don't think we've ever had a salt free trip out of Lake Victoria).  We wore bathing suits and salty stuff ashore, packing clean clothes to change into at the laundromat.  I had no problem stripping down to my bathing suit on the dock for the ride back to the boat.  It was, as usual, a wet ride out to the boat - the laundry was kept dry in a big plastic bag.  It was 1700 when we got back to the boat - a long day - so we stayed put for the night.

We'll rejoin the Reuters at Sand Dollar on Sunday to discuss plans to venture over to Long Island and Conception Island when the 15-20kt trade wind is forecast to drop some and go a bit to the S next week, possibly Monday, although that weather feature seems to be getting delayed a day every time we check.  Lighter winds  a bit more from the S would provide us with a nice sail.  Meanwhile the diurnal wind has kicked in again, blowing 15-20kts, keeping the batteries well charged.  The anchorage is a bit lumpy, but a couple of keys help break up some of the fetch, and the number of boats has thinned considerably.

 3/27/16    23 30.896N    75 44.671W    Sand Dollar Beach (Again)    1.6NM

Happy Easter!  Our day dawned bright and clear with the wind still blowing.

It got a bit lumpy at Regatta Point overnight with the trade wind blowing 15-20, so after breakfast we motored back over to Sand Dollar Beach, tucking a bit further in this time since there were far fewer boats anchored there.  We hoped being closer to shore might give us bit more protection from the waves.  It certainly was calmer than it had been at Regatta Point.  With clean clothes, there was no way we were going into town to watch the races.  Even the big dinghies looked like they were having a salt sprayed ride out of the harbor.  I was surprised at the number of dinghies that made the trip over from Stocking Island, but I guess if you needed something from the store, it might be worth the bone jarring ride over and back.

Lynnea picking a path through the rocks

The Reuters weren't aboard when we arrived, and after lunch, we went ashore (a much shorter and dryer ride than into Lake Victoria from the Regatta Point) and after taking a peek at the long beach, retraced a few of our foot steps and found a slightly different trail than I'd planned to hike.  Instead of taking us up to the top of a hill, while still on a bluff, we were overlooking a small beach to the S.  Leonard spotted a rope which we used to help us get down to the beach.  With the tide dropping, we clambered over the rocks and ledges, along the water until we reached the larger beach where the trail over to the cut went inland.  It was no where near as windy as the day we hiked this end of the island with the Reuters, so we didn't get covered with salt spray, an since we were doing the loop in reverse, which made it look possible to walk along the rocks - it hadn't looked possible from the other direction.

Sand Dollar Beach looking N

Even though we were walking along the same beach albeit  with a slightly higher tide level, we didn't spot a single sand dollar on the way back to the dinghy.  We hadn't seen any the first day we walked this beach either, and I'm left wondering if the state of the moon plays a role, as we saw lots of them when we walked with the Reuters, and also several years ago when we'd been here.  Interesting, but I'm not going to use data time to research the answer while we're here - we're using that to get weather, and would hate to run out at the wrong time!

Sunset from Sand Dollar Beach with GT in the background,
much of the time the sun has set behind clouds

Leonard has suggested we sail from here to Conception Island in the morning to get a better angle of wind.  Conception Island (the entire island, which has no settlement or buildings on it) is part of the Bahamas Land and Sea Park, so we'll be beyond cell range until we get to Long Island, most likely later in the week.  The more favorable winds in the forecast have been slipping out, day by day, but still forecast both in WindPredict and the GRIB files.   The GRIB files, which give a wider overview, show the fronts as they cross the states and turn up the coast, not quite getting here, but still affecting our winds, by reinforcing the trade winds.  We discussed plans with the Reuters over dessert and decided to head to Conception Island around 0900, after listening to Chris Parker's forecast and checking the weather in the morning.

Lynnea

More Sand Dollar Beach and Stocking Island

3/20 - 3/23/16    Sand Dollar Beach, Stocking Island
Happy Spring!  We've been having some balmy weather, hot when the wind isn't blowing, which has been the case the past few days ahead of a cold front due to arrive Monday afternoon.  It is forecast to bring some strong NNE winds that will help cool things down again, and have boats sitting tight.

After the Reuters returned from their grocery run to Georgetown in their dinghy (it's bigger than ours, but even they were soaked by the time they got back) we invited them to join us on a hike over to the beach, taking a short detour to the top of the cliff so they could see the view of the harbor to one side and the reef to the other.  It's fun to be with folks who like to walk, and gave us a chance to catch up with them.  We last saw Bette in Little River, NC, where she took us on a long beach walk in the rain - glad we had sun today!  Our planned 1 1/2 hour walk ran over by about an hour, but it's a beautiful beach that goes for miles, and we walked less than 1/4 of it.  We ended the day with sun downers aboard Imanja and plan to get together again while we sit out the cold front over the next few days.

Walking the  beach with Bette and Ernie Reuter

Monday was the calm before the storm that gave the Reuters the chance for another run to Georgetown for more provisions.  Since the supply boat arrives Mondays and Thursdays, the produce area at the supermarket tends to have slim pickings during the shortened hours the store is open on Sunday, and just about everything else  in town is closed.  It's a long dinghy ride, we usually move the boat when we go into town rather than do the 1.5NM in our dinghy.  I would have liked to taken the free truck ride to the meat market/deli (Mondays and Fridays at 1030) to get some meat, but since we're settled for the upcoming weather and didn't need food, we stayed put. 

Since it's Easter week, we've learned in the past that means very limited hours Friday - Monday.  I called the meat market to see if there would be a Friday truck this week, but they will be closed, and since they get a delivery Thursday, they can't spare the driver who doubles as a butcher to do a substitute day, and ditto for Monday.  When we talked to the Reuters after they got back, the truck was full - 18 people in a small pickup truck which translates as SRO.  Thankfully it's only a few miles, but that would be unthinkable state side!

I convinced Leonard to explore a couple of the beaches behind the boat we haven't been to in the past.  With a bit of looking, we found a path that linked the beaches at high tide that looked like we might be able to walk to Volley Ball beach. Instead we took 'Treasure Trail' across the island.  It meandered through the trees and across a dry bog before ending close to a swing in the shade overlooking the beach - a place Leonard likes to sit in the shade while I poke along the beach.  On the trail we heard a number of song birds, and have seen a number of bird watering stops along the trails, some with jugs of fresh water for hikers to use to replenish the bird baths (cut off jugs attached to trees).  An interesting spider had spun a web across the trail.  We tried to disturb its web as little as possible to slip past, and it immediately went to secure a carefully encased insect.

Spider with prey in its web

We hiked up the beach to the path over to one of the 'holes', hurricane holes tucked along the W side of the island, to see if we could access Volley Ball beach and our dinghy that way, but it looked too deep to wade across.  Instead, after walking back up the beach, we took a shorter trail across the island and skirted the rocks along the beach, doable at low tide.  I'd asked Bette to stop in at the Visitor's Center while they were in town to pick up some trail maps - there are an amazing number connecting various parts of the island.  The Reuters had an interesting trip back from town, their outboard quit about 2/3s over, still quite a row, but they were offered a tow back by a fellow cruiser.  The cruisers are great about lending a hand when needed.

During the afternoon, we watched a number of boats join us in the anchorage to get protection from the wind behind the cold front.  Right on schedule, the wind clocked through to the W during the day, and a batch of dark clouds gave us a welcome fresh water rinse about 1530, just as we were about to get in the dinghy to pick up a trail map from Bette, cancelling our plan for another walk.  Before sundown the wind had picked up to 20kts out of the NW, and clocked to the NE by morning, the reason we wanted to be tucked in the lee of Stocking Island.  It looked like a dozen boats hadn't made the move from Regatta Point before dark - 1.5NM of fetch would make it a bouncy anchorage.  We're a bit further from the beach than in the past, but can get ashore for hikes, and are conveniently next to Imanja. 

Tuesday afternoon, we picked Bette up, leaving Ernie to solve the outboard issue, and headed for the dinghy landing by the hurricane holes for a walk along the beach.  We saw a couple looking like they planned to wade cross the cut, and since there wasn't another dinghy, Leonard offered them a ride across.  The guy assured us it wasn't deep (just about low tide), and we watched as they waded across, the water getting to their waists.  Bette pointed out that that we were all shorter, and it would have been higher on us.  Guess we could have crossed yesterday, but still wouldn't have gotten to the dinghy since the map clearly indicated a chunk of the beach as private.

Looking S along the beach

The sound was awash with white caps thanks to the steady 20-25kt wind.  Given the conditions, there were fewer people on the beach than usual.  It was easy walking somewhat down wind as we headed N on the beach, inspecting the tide line for shells brought ashore by the wind and waves, qualifying it as a non-boring beach.  We ambled along for about 1 1/2 miles before heading back.  We thought about hiking up to the Monument, but it was very windy along the few bluffs we'd walked, so we saved that part of a less windy day when Ernie would be with us.  It 's a beautiful beach with a few rocky areas that have paths behind them.

A waterfall created by the incoming tide

With 3 of us in the dinghy, we knew it would be a wet ride back, and once it got too shallow to tuck along the shore, it was - all 3 of us were very salty and in need of a fresh water rinse by the time we dropped Bette off at Imanja.  Ernie had their out board fixed, so we invited them over for a movie after dinner.  With the wind blowing a steady 20 - 25 kts, our batteries were fully charged - we could use the computer as much as we wanted (it uses about the same amount of power as the 'fridge).  We had a good laugh watching a spaghetti western with some great sight gags on a DVD we'd picked up several years ago.

Bette and Ernie on the hill overlooking the cut between Stocking and Elizabeth islands

With the wind still blowing Wednesday afternoon we explored the S end of Stocking Island with the Reuters since it would involve a shorter and drier dinghy ride than hiking up to the monument.  The tide was out, so we walked along the beach rather than take the high water bypasses around the rocks.  We finally spotted a number of sand dollars for which the anchorage is named, many partially buried in the sand waiting for the tide to return.  Leonard rescued a stranded star fish that he carefully placed in the water after taking its photo.  I don't think I've ever seen one with these markings before.

One of the sand dollars by Sand Dollar beach -
the gray/brown color and fuzzy edges indicate they're alive

Interesting star fish

When we got to the steep rock at the end of the cut between the island, we took the trail to the top to get a great view of the sound and harbor.  We tried finding the trail skirting the cliff edge we'd taken on an earlier trip,  and got misted in a fine salt spray from the waves breaking on the rocks below for our efforts.  After reaching another small beach (would be almost non-existent at high tide), we decided going back the way we came and taking the path through the woods would be a safer (and drier) route than clamoring over the rock ledges.

Seas rolling in from the sound

Our various sources of wind predictions indicate the 15-20kt SE wind may last longer than originally forecast, so we'll stay put until the wind eases a bit.  We plan to move back to Regatta Point to make another supply run  to town before heading over to Long Island and Conception Island when the forecast indicates more favorable conditions.

Sand Dollar Beach Anchorage

03/19 - 3/20/2016  23 30.832N,   75 44.599W    Sand Dollar Beach    1.5NM

Hi,

Saturday morning, before moving over to Sand Dollar Beach, we went into town planning to stop at the BATELCO and Tourism offices to find out why our sim card doesn't recognize our phone for voice mail, and pick up a map of the trails on Stocking Island.  Being the Bahamas, both were closed for the weekend.  A quick stop at the Shop Rite provide ice cream bars to soothed our frustrations.  We took the walk around Lake Victoria, stopping to check out St Andrews Anglican Church, the pretty church on top of the hill - a beautiful setting.

St Andrews Parish Church in Georgetown

View of Lake Victoria from St. Andrews Church

The wind had died Friday evening, requiring screens to keep the bugs out.  While the screens do a decent job of keeping the bugs at bay, they also limit airflow, and when the wind doesn't blow, it gets warm down here.  Fans help!  And ours were on to keep the cabin comfortable.  The lack of wind didn't charge the batteries either, so we moved over to Sand Dollar rather than just run the engine at anchor.  We found a spot with surprisingly calm water given the S wind, a tad shallower (8') on one of the swings at low tide, but should be great once the wind clocks through to the N and NE with the front arriving Monday afternoon.  While the anchorage at Regatta Point had better wind protection from the S, it wouldn't once the wind switched, and we like Sand Dollar for its access to a number of trails on Stocking Island, and we'd avoid hunting for a spot to anchor with the crowd at Regatta once the front arrived.

Sand Dollar Beach anchorage

After lunch we hiked the S end of the island.  The trail runs on or behind the beach on the W, along the cut between Stocking and Elizabeth islands, and eventually to the top of the bluff overlooking the sound, before cutting across the island to the beach.  We had some great views of the waves breaking on the sound and back across the harbor.  It was a wet dinghy ride into the waves going back to the boat.

Looking S along Stocking Island from the top of the bluff

Looking down at the reef E of Stocking Island

We were waiting for Iemanja with the Reuters to join us.  We leapfrogged them while they spent a several days exploring Lee Stocking, and they indicated they'd join us at Sand Dollar sometime Saturday.   With the wind a steady 18-20 from the S-SE most of the day, it would be a windward sail to the harbor.  Eventually we got an email saying they'd stopped by Monument Beach (about 1NM N) around 1600 for the night rather than take a chance on a slot by us.  

Manana with Iemanja setting the anchor just beyond them

In the morning, I was surprised to see Manana, the Schneiders from MBBC, next to us.  The Reuters soon arrived and anchored just beyond them - amazing to have 3 VT boats anchored in a row this far from home.  We spoke with the Schneiders who were headed over to Long Island for the week - we were tempted to join them since it would be a nice sail over and a good spot to sit out the NE winds. We thought about seeing if the Reuters were up for the trip too, but with their 6' draft, they'd need to anchor further out, where it might be a bit lumpier.  Hopefully we'll catch up with the Schneiders later.  We plan to get together with the Reuters later today - they made a quick run over to the Exuma Market by dinghy - being a Sunday, they're only open from 10 - 12.  Nothing this far S and E in the Exumas operates 24/7, and with Easter week approaching, most shops will be closed Friday, part of Saturday, and all day both Sunday and Monday.  It pays to plan ahead!

Leonard gave me a haircut Sunday morning (a first - I've been his stylist for over 50 years), looks fine, but I haven't checked at the back yet.  As the morning progressed, the 7' depths at low tide got Leonard's attention, usually I'm  the one who worries, so we'll look for a slightly different spot to anchor.  We're approaching spring tides (again!) and subsequent low will drop about .1' per day until we get past the full moon.  Once we're set, we'll see if the Reuters are interested in a walk ashore.

On to Georgetown

3/17/16 - 3/18/16   To  23 30.316N,    75 45.854W    Regatta Point, Georgetown    44.0NM

We went over to Big Farmers Cay to go exploring with the dinghy.  The chart indicated a nice beach on the sound that could possibly be accessed by walking along the rocks at the cut, or hiking a short distance over a hill.  Neither turned out to be viable - the current was flowing out making landing the dinghy on the sharp rocks at the cut difficult, and we saw no sign of a trail over the hill that had a fairly steep incline.  The cays tend to have a few sandy beaches interspersed with rough, jagged remnants of limestone/coral rock, that looks sharp enough to damage an inflatable, something we'd rather avoid and can be tricky walking.  We did find an area of coral heads but didn't see that many fish.  We went to several beaches along the bank side, one of which had a number of cairns and a cave at the far end that we checked out.  By the time we headed back to the boat, the cruise ship had weighed anchor an was heading across the bank.  It had been a brief stop for the passengers to kayak or snorkel.  We had the place to ourselves.

Cains on the beach - this was one of the rare beaches with flat rocks

Cave at Big Farmers Cay

A morning update on the weather indicted we'd have SE wind, around 10kts, but too much on the nose to sail, with more of the same Friday, but closer to 15kts.  Having done the trip with 15kts on the nose (makes for a long day), we ran up the main, and motor sailed to Georgetown, taking advantage of the lighter wind and smooth water, skipping Lee Stocking Cay about half way.  The wind was about 20 degrees off the nose, so the main stabilized the boat and, upon occasion, gave us a bit of a boost.  With a very long period swell and little wind waves, it was an easy day and we passed over a dozen boats headed N.  We arrived in Elizabeth Harbor, coming through Conch cut around 1630, where the swell became noticeably more pronounced as it encountered shallower depths, with a shorter period between the swells, and waves breaking on the shoals.

Approaching Cave Cay Cut on the way out to the sound

Much as I would have liked to stop at Lee Stocking, I hadn't done any provisioning since Nassau, and the 'fridge was getting a bit sparse.  I knew I'd have more luck finding fresh produce at the market Friday or Saturday - things get very picked over just before the next ship is due, and we'd passed an out bound freighter as we entered the harbor.  We found room to anchor off Regatta Point among  a number of other vessels.  While there are plenty of boats in the harbor, I think we've seen more in past years - the recent week of light wind has allowed boats to move, and many who arrived in December are heading home.

The shelves in the market were being restocked as we shopped, with a good selection of fresh produce.  New since our last visit, is a VAT, so the price list has 2 prices, cost and cost plus tax.  Everything is considerably more expensive than in the states.  I tried checking the prices, but not all items were on the list, and as Leonard pointed out, it wouldn't make much of a difference in what I bought since I needed everything.  We'll take the free ride to the deli for meat another day.

After running the groceries back to the boat, we went back into town to check out the library and see if Leonard could get help getting the voicemail set up on the phone. at the BATELCO office.  The library, run by volunteer cruisers, is open 2 hours a day, and for a $3 annual membership, you can swap and/or check out books (the newer books you bring in tend to become part of the lending, not swap section).  It's a nice little library given the size of the community.

Lady Sonia on the hard - mast had snapped and the deck joint and bow were damaged

As I walked through the 'straw market', I learned the old market blew away in the strong winds this winter - this was a temporary one.  The gals are a lot more laid back than in Nassau, and you can browse hassle free.  I also saw the same T shirts we got 3/$10 in Nassau were $15 each here.  Given reports of sustained 100mph winds in January, I'm surprised we don't see more evidence of damage.  I can only imagine the nightmare that must have existed in the harbor with too many boats and few prepared for hurricane force winds. Leonard checked out the wharf and found one of the local racing boats that hadn't fared well this winter. On the way back to the boat we noticed dorsal fins in the water - it's the first time on any trip that we've seen dolphins in the Bahamas.  What a treat!

We still don't have voicemail.  The BTC gal was sure Leonard didn't know how to do it, but she got the same error message when she tried, and the website was down so she couldn't help us.  She gave a phone number to call, to try from the boat, but the system didn't recognize the number on the SIM card, and after 3 attempts, Leonard was locked out.  Best advice - it you need to reach us, use e-mail. It seems to get through, sometimes when we've only had 1 bar.  We love hearing from folks, but PLEASE delete our message if you send a 'reply'. The download tends to be very slow.  Other than the speed, the hot spot works fine if we're within range of a cell tower, which is great for getting weather updates and getting or sending e-mail.

Sunset over Georgetown

Warderick Wells to Big Galliot Cay

3/12/2016    To 24 23.670N, 76 38.107W,  Exuma Park Mooring #20, Warderick Wells, 15.8NM

Saturday we headed toward the park headquarters at Warderick Wells.  This past week moorings in the N harbor had been at a premium. with many sitting tight in the windy conditions.  With the winds abating just a bit, there were moorings to spare by the park headquarters, and almost no one on the moorings by Emerald Rock.  What a difference a day makes.  We were told at the 0900 broadcast that we'd get a mooring by the park office. 

With 15 NM to go, we put up a reefed main and ran out some jib.  The first 10MN weren't too bad since we were reaching, although we had choppy 1-2' seas that tended to bury the bow, effectively halving our speed when we caught one wrong.   The last 5 NM were dead to windward, not fun for boat or crew.  We rolled in the jib and tried to use the main to stabilize the boat in a steady 15-20kt breeze, reaffirming, once again, we don't like going to windward.  We got our mooring assignment just before noon, mooring 20, near the far end of the mooring field.  We managed to pick it up looking like we knew what we were doing.  Doesn't always work that way when the wind and current don't cooperate.

Exuma Park headquarters

After checking in, we hiked to the top of BooBoo Hill and found just enough cell coverage to collect the 80 some messages awaiting us in email.  From all appearances we'll be lucky if we can send a text, much less the log.  Internet is available at the park, for a hefty charge of $15/day, but knowing we should have a hot spot available in a couple of days, we'll pass.  It was interesting that their phone line has been out since the hurricane last year.

We hiked one of the trail loops before heading back to the boat.  Since it was Saturday, there was a sundown gathering on the beach, and another chance to meet some of our neighbors.  The excitement for the evening was a runaway dinghy (fortunately not ours).  It takes a minute to realize no one's aboard, before someone hops into another dinghy to go fetch it.  It was a fun evening.

Another topic of conversation was the low tides.  According to our guide book, the tidal swing should be a bit over 1 meter, about 45", a bit more during spring tides.  What we've been consistently seeing is closer to 5' and we're approaching the first quarter of the moon phase, beyond spring tide.  Don't know if all the wind has been blowing the water westward or what, it was still blowing 15-20kts out of the ESE during the night.  Leaving your dinghy on the beach can be interesting, either it will be high and dry, a long way from the water, or out in the water (we use an anchor to keep it from floating away) when you return.

3/13/16    Mooring 20, North Harbor, Warderick Wells

Since I'm a sailor, I get the privilege of complaining about the wind.  We've had too much since we arrived in the Bahamas, and now we don't have any.  Most sailors I know would love to average the wind over a period of time, enough for a nice sail (from the right direction of course), consistent and steady.  Doesn't work that way, so we go from too much to flat calm, usually overnight.  It was blowing 20 when we went to bed, and in the morning there were only a few cats paws on the water, and the mooring ball was tapping on the new paint job as the current switched.  Another sunny day in paradise.  With no wind, it got hot, like someone turned off the fan. 

From the top of BooBoo Hill showing Banshee Creek flowing cross the Cay

So we took it easy.  It was too hot to do a major hike around the island.  We hiked up BooBoo Hill at high tide, fording Banshee Creek, calf high on me both ways.  We found a connection at the top, of sorts, a phone connection, but not enough to get or send any messages.

The trail across Banshee Creek at high tide - you wade across

A visitor joining us at the bench atop BooBoo Hill

We waited until mid afternoon (low tide) to take a dinghy ride to some beaches on the bank side of the island, planning to check out a couple at the very southern tip of the island we haven't seen over the years.  It was a long ride, and we still didn't get to the last 2 beaches.  After walking at Cockle Beach, one of the longer ones, we opted to check out some coral heads on the way back to the boat.  The water was calm enough to see from the dinghy there weren't enough fish to warrant putting on our snorkeling  gear.  

By the time we got back to the N harbor, it was flat calm and slack current, so we drifted over the reef by the anchorage.  It was amazing, drifting and rowing over the coral heads looking at the coral and fish - no need to get wet, like a glass bottom boat.  We actually had a better view from the dinghy since we weren't restricted by goggles.  There were a variety of fish, including a small shark cruising the reef, a good sized lobster, and a lion fish (non native and dangerous).  True to its name, the lion fish had its main extended, looking a lot like an anemone, making it difficult to tell the difference until I saw it strike at something.  They are supposed to be tasty, and are featured on menus, since they have no known predators to keep the numbers in check and eat the indigenous species.  Before long we were joined by other dinghies, people snorkeling and even a paddle board.  It was great viewing, some of the best 'snorkeling' we've had.

With little wind, the temperature was 93 in the cabin when we got back, one of those days I wish I'd insisted on a grill.  The water in the solar shower was too hot (over 130, as high as the gauge reads) to use without adding water, and even then, still hot, making it easy to cut back on the amount of water we used.  The good thing about the tropics is things cool down fairy quickly after sunset, and a light zephyr from the E helped bring the temperature down after dark.

3/14/16    To  24 18.481N,   76 32.934W    Bell Island    16.7NM

With light winds, we departed Monday morning around 0900, heading out on the sound toward Cambridge Cay. The distance traveled via the sound is significantly less than over the bank where the shoals extend for several miles and there is a tricky, narrow passage on the NW end of Bell Island.  We'll try to stay ahead of the crowd that left the Florida Keys a week after we crossed - rumor was the wait list for moorings in Marathon went from 40+ boats, to empty moorings as boats headed for the Bahamas. 

Although the wind was more southerly than ideal, it was under 10 kts, making for an easy upwind sail.  Once clear of the reefs at Warderick Wells, we raised full sail and ambled along between 4-5kts, with the depth gauge reading 'deep' out on the sound.  We made 1 tack when Leonard realized his way point was Conch Cut, a bit further S than intended, and didn't drop sails until we'd started into Bell Cut.  A good days sail!

Looking out Bell Cut

Having checked Active Captain, we anchored off Bell Island, a developed, private, no trespassing island, where we wouldn't have to deal with moorings and current.  Last time we picked up a mooring at Cambridge, the current took the mooring under the boat until it switched back, something we'd rather avoid this year.  A couple of good snorkeling places and the park beach were within dinghy range. Meanwhile, we have jet skis and water skiers to watch from the folks on Bell Island.

Captain resting in a hammock made from 'found' netting
 (he said the knots made it uncomfortable)

After 1500 we dinghied over to Cambridge Cay.  With little breeze, it was a hot day, so we didn't hike up hill path, but walked the beach after taking the path across the island.  We discussed going over to seaquarium, but the current would be running out strong enough to make snorkeling difficult and the sun too low in the sky to see much at slack water.  Instead we checked out another beach that was full of shells, so I had fun looking (it's in the park which is a 'no take' zone). We don't seem to have the tides timed very well - the current's  running in when we head out, and out when we head in.  Thankfully the cuts from the sound are fairly short.

Beach at Cambridge Cay

3/15/16    To  24 05.924N,    76 24.226W    Black Point Anchorage    19.1NM

We've been listening to Chris Parker's weather at 0630 since we haven't been able to get new weather info on line.  This stretch of beautiful, sunny days with light S winds will come to an end over the weekend when a stronger cold front is forecast to reach as far south as southern Bahamas (the last one only reached the Abacos), returning the NE trade winds in its wake.  We're juggling logistics - things we'd like to do, provisions, laundry, anchorages and where we want to be when the front arrives.  If we stop and play at all the interesting places (tempting to do in light winds) we'll be north of Georgetown when the front arrives Saturday night/Sunday.  Not a great idea since the last 30NM are out on the sound which can be nasty in a blow.  Provisions depend on when the supply boat arrives at a given community, however, that schedule was radically changed recently when the supply boat crane broke and there were no deliveries for 2 weeks.  Laundry and fresh bread from Lorraine's mom is at Black Point.

With these variables in mind, we skipped snorkeling at the seaquarium in the morning, and continued S on the sound, running up the sails once we were in deep water.  Conditions were much like the day before, smooth water and about 10kts of apparent wind some 40 degrees off the bow, great sailing!  The original plan was to stop at Staniel to buy gas for the dinghy tank, check for provisions and get a hot spot from the BATELCO tower to get a weather update and send mail.  Since we were sailing nicely, doing between 4-5 kts, we just continued down to Dotham Cut, heading for Black Point. Glad we didn't head in, as we heard on the VHF that Staniel Cay Yacht Club was out of gas until a fresh shipment arrived sometime later in the week.

Rocks just S of Dotham Cut - the ripples in the water aren't wind,
 but current flowing out at 2.4kts

We really hit the current wrong at Dotham Cut as it was running out at 2.4kts as we came in.  We joined about 2 dozen boats already anchored off Black Point.  As we were gathering up our dirty laundry to go ashore, a small tour boat packed with passengers landed at the laundry dock, along with a local runabout which was already packed with dinghies.  By the time we arrived, dock space was at a premium, so we dropped a stern anchor to keep us off the rocks, and did some gymnastics to get on the dock.  Since the laundromat  was so busy we didn't have to hunt for the manager to buy the tokens for the machines.  Like many places in the Bahamas, the term business hours doesn't always mean the same thing it does in the states.  Whether a bank, post office or store, open is when someone happens to be there, and we've spent time in the past tracking the gal down to buy tokens.  The laundry is one of the nicest on the trip, with lots of machines, a breeze blowing through, WiFi, a small trading library and it gets a lot of usage from the cruisers.

The anchorage at Black Point from the town dock

A quick check at the store yielded a package of 'biscuits' and little else.  The supply boat was due Thursday, and the shelves and coolers would be restocked sometime after that - we'd make due with the stores on board.  We'd hoped to get some ice cream, but didn't want to buy a pint - it was so hot it would have been soft serve before we got back to the boat.  I picked up fresh bread from Lorraine's Mom - always a treat. 

Sharks feeding on a fish carcass by the town dock

The wind picked up from the N while we were ashore, just enough to make it difficult to get us and the laundry into the dinghy without getting everything salty again as the waves splashed on the dock.  We decided I'd walk the laundry to the town dock where there were fewer boats, and Leonard would meet me there.  To my surprise, the post office was open when I past - it had been closed earlier - so I mailed post cards to the grand kids (we may arrive home before they get them). 

Sunset at Black Point

2/16/2016   To 23 55.629N,  76 17.541W,  Big Galliot Cay,  15 NM

The wind died during the night, and we could see our anchor, sitting on the bottom, next to us as we ate breakfast.  Before leaving , we went ashore to fill the solar shower (free water) and take a  short walk.  With no breeze it was already hot, and with little wind in the forecast, we could expect another hot day.  Black Point looked like a cross roads where boats stopped before heading different directions.  A bunch heading N, went out Dotham Cut, while several others, like us, headed S on the bank, with about half still at anchor when we left around 1100.

#40 - a racing boat being fine tuned for the spring regattas

Another under construction

An old, 1 room house - new construction uses cement blocks  instead of stones

It was a strictly motor day - not enough wind to fill a sail as we headed S on the bank until just before we approached our anchorage between Big Farmer's Cay and Big Galliot Cay.  Just after our anchor was down, a small cruise ship came in Galliot Cut and anchored off Big Galliot Cay - guess we may not have the anchorage to ourselves after all.

Grande Mariner anchoring just S of us