10/29/2015, 10/30/2015 Hospital Pt and Great Bridge

10/29/15    To 36 50.716N,  76 17.983W    Hospital Point, Norfolk    47.6NM    MILE '0'

Thursday morning the wind was from the W and the skies clear, so after breakfast, we headed on our way.  As we departed, it appeared 3 of us had taken refuge from the weather in the Severn, another sailboat had anchored in the SW branch.  It also had been a decent spot to wait for the the weather to change.

After running out the jib, we decided a bit more sail was necessary and we raised the main.  It was going to be one of those days - 30 minutes after it was up, we were reefing in 18kts of  building wind.  Then it was 10kts, so we shook out the reefs, at least we were sailing and headed in the right direction.  The wind played tricks all day.  By noon, we were reefed again and a bit later rolled in some jib as the wind built into the 20's.  A long time ago, on another boat, we learned it's best to reef when you first think it might be a good idea.  So we do, and have generally found we sail faster with less canvas up and with less stress to vessel and crew.  The wind also shifted directions, usually not in our favor, blowing harder more on the bow.  When the wind and our intended course became one and the same a bit S of Salt Pond, we turned on the engine and furled the jib rather than spend a long time getting nowhere, we'd be able to sail again once we made the turn on the Elizabeth River past the Navy vessels.

We knew the current would be an issue, and it was, flowing against us from the start, and slowly building as we headed S.  With our impeccable timing, we managed to carry a counter current all the way to Hampton Roads, where it was flowing out as we entered the Elizabeth River - at 3+kts, and continued, slowly lessening until we reached Hospital Point in Norfolk. We never got any 'good' current! Checking our 'track', the actual distance sailed over the ground, against the knot meter log reading, we'd traveled an additional 10NM, thanks to the current.  No wonder it had been a long day, that's an additional 2 hours!

Old Point Comfort Light House at Hampton

Tugs assisting Warship 189 as she heads to sea

As always,  Hampton Roads had plenty of ship traffic - inbound and outbound ships,  military vessels, tugs and tows, pleasure craft and a number of  big inflatables carrying armed assault troops.  It helps to monitor channel 13 to hear the traffic chatter to help keep abreast of things.  At 1630, a series of big tugs called it a day and tied up at one of the wharves on the E side of the channel while the pilot boat was still busy getting pilots on and off the big ships.  Our track also seemed to be the approach path of a large number of helicopters.  The traffic doesn't stop at sundown either, with tugs and tows plying the various branches of the river all night.

The USS Cole in port - we last saw her off Yorktown a couple of years ago

We were surprised to find the Hospital Point anchorage virtually empty  when we arrived - 2 sail boats anchored off one of the marinas.  Usually it's packed, and it can be interesting to find a spot between the shoals, bobbers and other boats. A new addition was a NOAA weather buoy that records vital statics that are included in the hourly weather reports.  In the morning we'll be able see and hear the weather simultaneously.

By 1700 we were settled for the night - a bit late in the day to launch the dinghy to go ashore, but time for a hot shower before dinner since we had plenty of hot water and it was warm (upper 70's).  A number of rental day sailors from Nauticus (a new addition) were out enjoying the pleasant afternoon on the water as we anchored.  Some looked to be taking youngsters out, like the Sailing Center in Burlington. The anchorage gradually filled, with a few boats feeling their way in after dark, giving us plenty of entertainment while we enjoyed dinner in the cockpit. 

We've seen several of these tugs - they appear to have a very low free board, and we wonder if they're used only to push barges. The battleship in the background is the USS Wisconsin from WWII, an Exhibit at Nauticus.

Norfolk at night

This was docked there in the morning!

10/30/2015  To 36 43.289N,76 14.526W   Great Bridge Park   Chesapeake, VA   9.9NM

Hearing a strange noise Leonard crawled out of our bunk at 0615.  He came back to bed and stated a big cruise ship was moving slowly into the Norfolk cruise ship dock across the river from us.  It was both close and noisy enough to prevent us from falling back to sleep - think really big bow thrusters. Since we knew it would be a short day, we weren't in a big rush to get up.  Note sunrise at Norfolk was about 0720.

Sun rise over the E Branch of the Elizabeth River - the ICW uses the S Branch

We watched as everyone else pulled anchor around 0730 and headed S.  We planned to spend the night at one of the free docks at Great Bridge between the lock and the bridge, about 10NM, where we could walk to the laundromat and get more provisions.  The advantage of waiting an hour was less traffic on  the ICW and fewer boats getting settled in the lock at Great Bridge.  In any case, we'd be clear of any bridge restrictions, including the RR bridge which would only open a few times between 1100 and 1900 while workers replaced ties.  

The lock master at Great Bridge, a cheery woman, opened the gates early, and assisted getting our lines on the cleats for the 18" drop.  The lock and bridge coordinate together on an hourly schedule - getting in early doesn't mean locking through any faster - we'd be locked through at 1045.  When another sailboat tied up behind us, the lock master commented how few we were compared to the earlier group, while passing out Halloween candy - nice touch!  A large motor yacht arrived just before the gates were to close, so we waited a few minutes while he secured lines ashore.   By 1100 we'd cleared the lock and were tied up at the end of the free dock space.  Plenty of time to do the chores and relax, and a beautiful, warm (mid 60's), sunny day to spend on shore.

Leonard reminded me we had another interesting CG incident to relate.  We heard a 'security' call on the VHF the other day and listened as the CG announced they'd lost a mannikin used in a man over board drill, 'requesting boaters to assist if possible, keep a sharp look out while transiting the area, and report any sightings'. Whoops! I wonder if it was wearing a PFD.  Perhaps it had been a practice drill at the Coastie training station on the York River, but still...

We can also report having seen the dirigible that broke loose from its mooring off the Aberdeen Proving Grounds the other day.  Two dirigibles had been visible when we entered the Chesapeake and we'd speculated about their purpose, perhaps for some special event, or a northern version of Fat Albert, who has been monitoring vessels in the Florida Straits off the Keys for decades (the 50 years of the Cuba embargo?).  It can be amazing what our tax dollars buy.

One of the 2 dirigibles tethered over the Aberdeen Proving Grounds

10/26/2015 - 10/28/2015 Fishing Bay and Mojack Bay

10/26/15   To 37 32.438N,  76 20.193W    Fishing Bay, Piankatank River    28.4NM

Once again, we ran out the jib after running out of the Great Wicomico River planning on a short day to Fishing Bay on the Piankatank River, just S of the Rappahanock River.  We hadn't seen many sails on the horizon during the day, but joined a small fleet already at anchor behind Stove Point around 1500.  The point provides great protection from an E wind, and there is deep water close to the N shore, making it an ideal spot for the NE wind forecast to come up over night.  Late in the day, the number of boats at anchor, most larger than Antares, had risen to a small fleet.  We suspect some may be joining either the Salty Dawg Rally or the Caribbean 1500, both of which depart from the Norfolk area after the official end of hurricane season, Nov. 1.  Others we're likely to see further down the ICW.

Almost full moon rising above Stove Point at Fishing Bay

Wolf Trap light house

10/27/15- 10/28/15   To and at 37 19.115N,   76 27.576W    SW Branch, Severn River, Mobjack Bay    38.6NM

With the remnants of TS Patricia joining a gulf coat system heading our way, several days with fairly strong (15-20kts) SE winds and rain were in the forecast.  We planned to tuck in somewhere until the next cold front arrived Thursday, bringing clearing skies and switching the wind back into the NW.  After looking at the chart plotter, we realized we could make Hampton before dark if we hustled, possibly tucking into the marina we used last year that provided a secure dock conveniently located near shopping for a reasonable rate.  Unfortunately, by the time I called, they were full, so it was back to Plan A, tuck up in one of the creeks off Mobjack Bay to wait out the weather.  The SW branch of the Severn River looked to be the best bet - we could sail most of the way there on the NE wind, and have some protection when we departed Thursday when WSW wind was forecast for the morning.  It also offered enough twists and bend for reasonable protection from the wind.

Estate to the north of our SW Severn anchorage

 A google search found this as the 'Eagle Point Plantation' for sale at $3.95M

We were a bit surprised to not find anyone else tucked into the anchorages and finally chose a spot just beyond Cod Point, past most of the modest homes along the S shore.  With almost no local traffic, we could anchor in the middle, with plenty of swing room to handle wind shifts, and somewhat limited fetch, but not enough to be a problem.  Just before sunset (had it been shining) another sail boat arrived to drop a hook at Free School Creek, another spot we'd considered about 1 NM away.

Abandoned house a bit west of the estate

We can now report that the rain curtains do help keep the cockpit dry, allowing us to enjoy the view while sitting outside.  The wind blew from the E at a steady 15+kts most of the night, keeping the batteries charged, and brought a scattered showers.  Temperature wise, it was quite warm, with daytime highs forecast in the 70's.  Dawn brought more occasional periods of rain and a few glimpses of the sun.  We spotted an eagle perched in a tree on the point behind the boat, a bit too far to get a picture, other than for identifying purposes.  All in all, not a bad day, just unfortunate we can't take advantage of the breaks in the weather to go for a walk.  I read in the guide book that the home of George Washington's grand parents is at the head of the creek, accessible by dinghy, and serves fancy meals on weekends, but that would require launching the dinghy, and it's not the weekend.

Once the weather passes, we'll continue on our way, trying to work the timing right to miss bridge restrictions (many) in the section S of Norfolk including the one RR bridge where tie replacement is ongoing (closed clearance 6'!).  We're hoping to find a spot at the free docks at Great Bridge, where we plan to stop and take advantage of the nearby laundromat and grocery store. 

10/25/2015 Great Wicomico River

10/25/2015    To 37 47.726N,  76 19.084W   Mill Creek Anchorage of the Great Wicomico River, VA     44.7 NM
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With our plans for Sunday somewhat up in the air, we hauled the dinghy and settled in for the night.  I heard the wind generator whistle a few times during the wee hours, but given the secure anchorage, didn't bother to get up and look at the wind direction.  Morning was gray and drizzly with no wind (forecast had been SW10-15).  The forecast indicated the wind shifting to the NW by early afternoon, and gusty, so we departed at 1030 after the wind went W to check out conditions on the bay.  Other than a bit of persistent drizzle, conditions were good enough to head on our way (W10-15).  Even with the late start, the chart plotter indicated we'd reach the Great Wicomico River anchorages around 1700, maybe earlier if the wind blew a bit harder and/or the current went in our favor.  Sounded good to us, so we ran out the jib and motor sailed most of the way since the wind was less than 10 most of the day.  Given the weather, pleasure boat traffic was light, and being in deeper water (35+ft) much of the time, bobbers were only an occasional problem.

A barge pushing a big raft of steel beams

I saw the first pelican of the trip just N of Solomns, and more as we headed S Sunday.  They are great fun to watch as they fly in tight formation and dive like kamikaze into the water for fish.  They are one of a handful of birds designed to dive headfirst into the water, sometimes from great heights.  Thick headed must apply to withstand the force of hitting the water head first at high speed.  Hopefully dolphins will appear soon too, to brighten our days with their antics.  Watching wild life on these trips has always been interesting and one of my favorite parts of the trips.

It was a bit of a surprise to find the Great Wicomico entrance mark gone as we entered the river.  It was a fixed structure mounted on a tripod of long poles.  Would have been a huge surprise had we arrived after dark!  However we arrived, as planned, around 1700, with plenty of light to negotiate our way up Mill Creek (one of many in the Chesapeake), to a protected anchorage for the strong NW  winds in the forecast.  They certainly weren't in evidence during the afternoon.  We were glad the wind and current were in sync, and going more or less in the direction we were headed, as we crossed the mouth of the Potomac - it's a big river, over 10NM from Point Lookout to Smith Point - with a lot of NW fetch and can be miserable when the elements aren't in our favor.

Fish Traps on the approach to the Great Wicomico

All in all, it wasn't a bad day.  We considered raising the main several times, but knew if we did, the wind would blow and we'd soon be reefing.  The anchorage is snug and it should provide a peaceful night.  The next challenge is figuring out where to spend Wednesday - Thursday, when it sounds like we'll have ample time to see how the side curtains work in rain with the passage of a stronger cold front.  There a lots of places to tuck in and wait it out, which we plan to do since we don't have a tight schedule.

We'll also need to negotiate possible RR bridge closings as we depart Norfolk.  From looking at Active Captain, it appears tie replacement on the bridge hasn't gone as smoothly as planned, causing an extended period of restrictions for all traffic headed S of Norfolk.  Naturally we've heard no mention of this on Channel 16, although perhaps we need to pay closer attention to Local Notice to Mariners.  Although I can't say we've been impressed with the Coasties - most announcements are unreadable given the speed with which they are delivered.  Perhaps a career as an auctioneer would be appropriate when they exit the service.

Red barn on Mill Creek at the Great Wicomico River

We've been fortunate in fuel usage this trip, thanks to having the wind blowing from some quadrant other than dead ahead most days, the Delaware Bay being the odd day out.  Firing up the engine to run the windlass while hauling the anchor and getting out on the bay and into our chosen anchorages at the end of the day has worked well, providing hot water and keeping the batteries topped off.  With the wind blowing either from some northerly quadrant, we've been lazy, opting to just run out the jib which has provided enough sail area to maintain a reasonable speed as we head S. 

The current is another issue over which we have little control, and we've found the current heading N as we sail S until we head toward an anchorage when it flows downstream, having gone past slack water on the bay.  The reality is it's going the wrong way far longer than with us, in part because it takes longer to cover a similar distance than when the current is with us.  We could wait a week or so when we could catch a boost, but that's not a realistic probability.  Argh!  We try to ignore it as much as possible, just glad we haven't been plagued by  strong current against the wind, that makes for short, choppy waves - not smooth sailing.

10/23/2015 Solomons, Md

10/23/15    To 38 20.271N,   76 27.607W    Back Creek Anchorage, Solomons    45.2NM


Once out on the bay we had a nice sail to Solomons Island.  Leonard rigged the main, but with our course between 130 - 170 off the wind, we just ran out the jib and put on the pole to keep it steady in the waves.  Lazy man's way, but a lot easier than trying to keep both sails filled running down wind in 2-3' seas, and not significantly slower with just the 135% jib.  Unfortunately the sail kept us in the shade most of the day, making it chilly since, when running downwind, there is no ducking behind the dodger to get out of the wind .  It was considerably warmer once we were anchored in Back Creek.

Tour boat in Solomons

With the wind forecast to clock through the SE Saturday to the SW-NW Sunday ahead of a cold front, Leonard spent time looking at the GRIB files.  While the forecast wind wasn't all that strong, SE was the direction of the next leg, so we planned to stay put Saturday, heading on our way Sunday in the slightly more favorable wind conditions.  That meant we could wait to go ashore for provisions and spend what remained of the afternoon, relaxing in the cockpit.  Seemed like a good idea to both of us rather than rushing ashore to hike to the store.  Seems we've been going full tilt since we decided to head south for the winter in early September.

Loon swimming through the Solomons anchorage

The longer term forecast was for yet another cold front to arrive Wednesday, giving us the opportunity to see how well the side curtains work in the rain (70% probability).  So far, we've had beautiful, sunny skies most days, and we're not complaining.  We've even kept the decks relatively salt free since washing the boat in Baltimore.  The few splashes that made their way onto the decks have gotten wiped down with the morning dew - so we haven't wished for rain to give us an easy rinse.

10/24/15  Re-position to 38 20.255N,    76 27.602W    Back Creek Anchorage, Solomons    2.4NM


After the wind switch during the night, Leonard wasn't happy with where we were sitting Saturday morning - too close to some docks - so we motored over to the free town pump out station before re-anchoring and heading ashore.  For once it was fairly easy to tuck into the slip alongside the pump out.  The tide was way up and I had no problem lassoing a piling.  However, when Leonard pushed the on button on the pump, nothing happened.  He tried several times, but it appeared to be out of commission and there was no one around to ask for help. 

Onward to one of the marinas since a pump out had been planned at this point.  I'd noticed a very convenient dock labeled pump out at Zahniser's Marina, so we stopped there.  It was a hike to the marina office to alert the staff we were at the dock, but at $5, seemed a bargain, and someone would be right with us.  He said the pump would take a minute or two to prime -  it was a new system, replacing the old one with more electronics (not sure salt water and electronics are the best mix).  He'd used it that morning, but couldn't get it to run and needed time to work out the kinks in the new system.  We could wait at the dock, no promise it would work, or look elsewhere.

We continued in our search for a functioning pump out.  Spring Cove, next to where we'd been anchored, had a functioning pump, and the dock guy pedaled down on his bike as we tied off.  Yes, his was working and free - the State of Maryland provided money a number of years back to help keep the bay clean, but doesn't cover upkeep of the systems, hence the low price.  Had we known, it would have saved us an hour.  At least I got hot water to do dishes, so it wasn't a total waste of time and fuel.  This would have been frustrating if we'd planned on departing bright and early, but proved somewhat interesting, giving us a chance to see what some of the many marinas in the area offer.

Most of the boats that had been anchored by us overnight had departed, so we had our choice of spots to drop the hook.  By then it was lunch time, so our shopping excursion got delayed until after we'd eaten.  Woodburn's Store, conveniently located just up the hill from the dinghy dock, closed a number of years ago.  While on the pricey side, they had nice produce, a good deli, and an interesting bakery.  Food Lion, just under a mile further out of town, is now the only choice other than a 7/11 convenience store. 

With our fresh provisions stowed on board, we rowed back in for a walk through town.  I'd noticed some docks along the waterfront by Spring Cove Marina that shortened the hike a bit and gave us a chance to look at more boats.  Solomons vies with Annapolis providing marinas and services for the greater DC area, and I'm not sure which has the most boats. Both are great for those of us who enjoy looking at boats of all sizes and shapes.

An interesting sight, a sign called it a Liquification Project, note the number of axles required to transport. A Google search indicates it is to be used to liquify domestic natural gas for export.

A lovely boathouse by our anchorage - saw a beautifully restored wooden boat pull in at it

10/22/2015 Harnes Creek

10/22/15   To  38 56.232N,   76 30.621    Harness Creek    11.7NM

After seeing Deeter off, we walked up to Chick and Ruth's Delly to for a fresh apple fritter - there had been a couple in the case when we got our dinner and they looked too good to pass up - it was, still warm and packed with pieces of apple.  After a short walk, we returned to the boat to continue on our way south.

Watermen setting pots as we head out into the bay

Thomas Point Light between the Severn and South Rivers

After some debate, we agreed stopping by Quiet Waters Park on Harness Creek was a better choice than St. Michaels on the eastern shore.  Another front was forecast to arrive overnight, switching the wind from S to N.  If we did the 'back door' via San Domingo Creek, off the Choptank River, we'd arrive late afternoon, and if we did the Miles River route, a bit shorter, we'd need to beat into a N wind in the morning as we retraced our route back to the bay.  With a light S wind, either would be a slow sail or a straight motor.  Harness Creek was much closer (10NM vs 30NM), we could sail after rounding Thomas Point Light and could spend the day hiking on the trails in the park.  We did - it's a great park with a mix of wooded hiking trails and bike paths.  With little wind, we went exploring in the dinghy before calling it a day, checking out other possible anchorages and going to the end if the creek.

Turtles in the garden at Quiet Waters State Park

Interesting, unidentified flowers on a bush at Quiet Waters State Park

Heron spotted on our dinghy ride (photographed at full zoom)

The trees have begun displaying more color in the few days we've been in the Chesapeake

Sunset at Harness Creek

With a N wind in the morning, we would have a nice sail to Solomons on the Pautuxent River where we may spend a a day waiting for the weather settle a bit before continuing on our way.  Solomons offers multiple anchorages, spanning from quiet and tranquil to easy access to town and the Maritime Museum, as well as free pump out facilities.  It's been one of our regular stops and has proven a great place to sit out inclement weather.

10/19/2015 - 10/21/2015 Magothy River and Annapolis

10/19/2015   To 39 04.231N,  76 30.828N   Dividing Creek, Magothy River MD   23.0 NM

In the morning we stopped at the nearby West Marine before we did a provisioning run at the nearby Safeway.  After stowing everything, walked back to Fell's Point to stop at Pitango, a great little bakery/deli to get some cream filled brioche we had sampled Sunday.  We were disappointed to find brioche weren't an everyday item and settled for some croissants instead.

Although we didn't need to depart the marina until 1400, we checked out around noon to head for the Magothy River and a peaceful anchorage.  Being only about 25NM, it would be a short day, splitting the distance to Annapolis to give us an early arrival on Tuesday.  The harbor should be back to normal with the boats and vendors from the power boat show having departed on Monday.  We watched them break down a show once, a very interesting event, with boats departing and crews removing the extra docks following in their wake. 

Tug following us as we leave Baltimore

Deeter has been working out the logistics of arranging transportation from Annapolis to either Baltimore International of Penn Station to catch a train home.  We'll spend Wednesday in Annapolis before she departs Thursday morning, and we head toward Norfolk.

We've had a great time sharing this portion of the trip with Deeter.  Her extra pair of hands have been greatly appreciated and we've thoroughly enjoyed having her on board to share in our adventure.  She's been great about bunking down with our extraneous gear in the aft cabin, cocooned in a sleeping bag.  She says it's a comfy, snug berth with plenty of room for her.  It's wonderful to have a friend who enjoys doing similar things, although I expect we may have walked her further than she expected!  That would hardly be inconceivable to those who  cruise with us on the lake.

10/20/15-10/21/15   To  38 58.564N,  76 28.952W    Annapolis Municipal Mooring #11    16.2NM

It was a short day, as planned, and after taking on fuel and water and doing a pump out, we picked up city mooring #11 in Annapolis and paid the harbor master for 2 nights.  Although the power boats from the boat show had departed by the time we'd arrived, the crew was still working hard and breaking down the show.  It's rather impressive as they drive in pilings into the harbor to support docks for both the sail and power boat shows and remove them afterward.  We watched as boats towed away rafts of docks, 11 long, that had recently been filled with someone's dream boat.  You could almost feel the town taking a deep breath of relief at the end of the boat show season.  A number of the moorings still had red covers indicating they weren't available just yet.  Many others were free now the crowds had departed.

After launching the dinghy we went ashore to explore the town with Deeter.  Our first stop was the Market Place which offers a variety of stalls selling good food, to pick up a bite to eat..  After lunch, we walked up to the Welcome Center for Deeter to check out transportation to BWI to catch a train back home.  The folks there were great, recommending an inexpensive ride who would pick her up by the Harbor Master's office, much easier than transferring buses several times over a much longer time interval.  After a quick stop at the nearby post office to look at box sizes for shipping some of her gear home, we were off exploring.

Looking down Main Street toward the harbor in Annapolis

One of the many houses decorated for Halloween - I've never seen such realistic cats!

 We did a quick tour of the grounds at the Charles Carroll House, circa 1720.  He was the only Catholic to sign the Declaration of Independence and the last of the signers to die.  It is a lovely setting along Spa Creek with an interesting garden and expansive grounds.  Next we checked out the Naval Academy.  After watching the short introductory film, Leonard thought - briefly - about signing up.  Very inspiring, given the vast numbers who apply to the Academy and how few get accepted, touching lightly on the plebe summer induction and first year.  Those who get accepted have a tough 4 years ahead before graduating and becoming officers in the Navy or Marines.  From  this tax payer's point of view, it's money well spent.  Everyone we saw on campus walked as if they had a sense of purpose - no skate boarders lounging about in sight.

Beautiful, old, wooden vessel on the dock at the USNA

The chapel at the Academy

We checked out the Naval sailing fleet, neatly lined up at the dock or out on the Severn River.  As we walked past the chapel, we decided to take a peek inside.  What a treat to hear the organ being played as we opened the door.  It has one of the largest organ consoles in the world producing 15,688 equivalent pipes.  The sound was magnificent, filling the chapel, and we were disappointed when someone stopped to chat with the organist, ending our impromptu concert.  After walking back through town, we called it a day.

Our side curtains have worked well to cut the wind and make it more comfortable to be in the cockpit when it's chilly..  My only regret is the inexpensive vinyl we used is blurry compared to the isinglass in the dodger.  There is always a lot to watch in the harbor, and the lack of clear vision was a bit frustrating.  However, I suspect had we ordered the expensive stuff, they wouldn't have fit as well.  Guess we can use these as templates - with a few minor tweaks - they'd be really great.  We have yet to see how they fair in rain., but I'm sure we'll have plenty of opportunity before reaching Tiger Point in December.  Nonetheless, it was pleasantly warm, tucked in out of the wind, having dinner in the cockpit watching the action.

After mailing Deeter's box in the morning, we had the whole day to explore Eastport and Annapolis.  As we passed St. Anne's Church - aka the Circle Church - we saw a sign for free tours and a mini concert.  A closer check indicated a free 12 minute organ concert at 1212, followed by a tour on Wednesdays - we were in luck.  With a couple of hours to wait, we walked over to Eastport and wandered the docks, stopping by the Maritime Museum before heading back to town.  Unfortunately the Maritime Museum was closed.  They were hosting a school group and it was interesting to see how engaged many of the kids, middle school age, were.  Perhaps there is hope that future generations will do a better job of saving the environment than we've managed to do.

We were treated to an airshow when an Osprey flew over head as we walked through Eastport, both in airplane and hovering 'helicopter' mode.  Given the number of people out looking, it didn't appear to be a common event.  It was interesting to watch as it switched from hover to airplane, very impressive! 

Osprey overhead in helicopter mode

Bow detail of the Skipjack, Stanley Norman

Stanley Norman at the Maritime Museum

We hiked back to Annapolis, arriving at St Anne's  Church just before the mini concert began.  Although brief, it was a treat, both to listen to the organ and to sit and enjoy the tranquility of the sanctuary.  The organ, a Tracker, built in Germany and installed in 1975 and updated in 2005 with additional digital controls.  Although both organ and church were considerably smaller than the Chapel at the Academy, the sound filled the space nicely, and, as in the Chapel at the Academy, the acoustics were wonderful. 

  The organ in St Anne's Church

We took a self tour the State House, the oldest that is still in use, in the country.  Annapolis served briefly as the Capitol before it was moved to Washington, DC.  George Washington resigned his military commission in the Continental Army before the assembly in the Senate Chamber 1783, setting the precedent for the president to be the commander in chief for our military forces. The building is impressive, and the dome tower, the largest wooden dome in the country, is beautiful, from both outside and inside.

Painting of Washington resigning his military commission in 1783 by Edwin White (1858)

After lunch, we took a dinghy ride up Spa Creek, an impressive trip, featuring many yachts and the interesting homes along the shoreline.  We stopped at one of the town dinghy docks to walk up to Zimmerman-Wilson House (I may be related on the Zimmerman side), a lovely1893 Queen Ann style Victorian.  It has been beautifully restored by the First Presbyterian Church and serves as the National Naval Memorial of the Presbyterian Church, fittingly so, as it was the home of Charles Adams Zimmerman, USNA bandmaster who composed 'Anchors Aweigh', the official Navy song.  It is now part of the church complex.  As we were walking away, a neighbor lady told us the house was one of the first 'Craftsmen' homes, built from a kit purchased from Sears.  Wow!

Zimmerman-Wilson House

Being our last night in port and cook's night off, we went to Chick and Ruth's Delly for our ritual 2 crab cake dinner.  One dinner is more than enough for both of us.  They didn't disappoint, and provided left overs for another meal.  Dessert was one of Sofi's apple crisp crepes, another treat I look forward to each time we stop. 

It was our last dinner with Deeter who would be departing Thursday, before breakfast, to catch an Amtrak train at the BWI stop back to RI.    It's been great to have her with us since we enjoy similar things - being on the water, looking at boats and wandering through towns looking at the homes and gardens.  We're going to miss her as we head south.  She's been a great crew mate.

10/17/15 - 10/18/15 Baltimore

10/17/15 - 10/18/15   To and at 39 16.786N,   76 35.027    Slip E59, Anchorage Marina   41.2NM

We planned to head in to Baltimore Saturday to give Deeter a taste of the how diverse cruising in the Chesapeake can be (besides, the contemplation of hot shower was enticing, and with temperatures dropping to freezing the next couple of nights, being able to plug in and use the electric heater would be welcome). We were underway as the sun rose under very pleasant conditions - cool, but with light winds. 

Once we cleared the entrance to the Sassafras River, we sailed across the bay toward the Patapsco River as the NW wind filled in, making for a pleasant trip.  We'd heard small craft warnings issued by NOAH earlier, but with the conditions so benign, weren't concerned about the weather.  As we approached the Patapsco River, the wind began to build, but with such a short distance to sail before we'd need to drop sail (it would be dead into the wind once we started up river) we didn't bother to reef when the gusts started getting to 20ks.  Fortunately, we managed to slurp the jib and get the main down just before the piped up into the mid 20's - yup, small craft advisories were in order!

Regatta on the Patapsco with the Baltimore skyline and Fort Henry as a back drop  (Camera Setting ??)

A novel nun!

It was a slog into the wind and waves as we headed up river to Baltimore.  We'd heard announcements on the VHF about a regatta taking place on the river, and watched as the boats headed down the Patapsco, with the current and downwind - one of the smaller boats, under spinnaker, flew past, almost leaving a rooster tail.  It looked to be an exciting and fast race unless they had to head back into the wind for the finish. We didn't stick around to watch.

It always seems to blow when we go to Baltimore.  We saw apparent gusts approaching 30kts, and realized it would be interesting getting into a slip at the marina unassisted.  I'd called earlier and reserved a slip for 2 nights.  The gal on the phone didn't mention the office had cut back on hours, closing at 1400 on Saturday, and closed on Sunday.  Unable to reach anyone on the cell phone after we'd started in toward our slip (E59 when I spoke to her) Leonard tried the VHF and finally reached the security guard who said he'd meet us at the dock.  It appeared they'd painted the pilings, but neglected to redo the dock letters, so we had no idea which was E dock.  It proved interesting to turn the boat around in close quarters in the wind while we waited for the guy to arrive, but Leonard managed, just.  It was  equally interesting getting into our slip - fortunately it was into the wind, but less than 20' wide - Antares is 12', with docks on either side and a 90 degree turn.  We were glad to have both Deeter on board to help, and someone on the dock to catch a line. 

We'd wondered why he'd gone to the starboard side dock, but soon saw it was because the port side dock was full of bird poop and grass growing from some of the gaps, and not exactly in great shape  We'd noticed the docks had been in less than pristine condition last fall, and it appeared little upkeep  had been since.  Maintenance has to be costly, and with the number of empty slips I wondered if income is down and they are having  trouble meeting expenses.  It was interesting that we'd been 'stuck in the boonies' with so many closer, empty slips available - I'd requested to be closer to the office and facilities and was told given our length, we would be assigned a 30' slip, not a longer one that would have been closer.  Fine, but when we got to the office  (closed - .the security guard eventually came to the door to give us our paper work) our slip assignment had been switched  to E14, considerably closer, but she hadn't bothered to call me.  After looking at E14 - a down wind slip - we decided we'd rather walk than move, especially in the gusty wind!   After the security guard replaced one of our keys that only worked intermittently we were settled in for the night.

Pumping Station

St Vincent dePaul Church and the Phoenix Shot Tower

Once the salt was rinsed from the decks, we went exploring, walking along the wharves into the inner harbor before heading back to Canton for dinner.  We introduced Deeter to Dangerously Delicious Pies, where we each chose a slice of pie to take back to the boat for some future dessert.  After a long and varied day, it felt good to crawl into our bunks after a well deserved, hot shower.  Given the dip in the temperature, it also felt good to have the little electric heater warming up the cabin.

10/18/2015

The problem with Baltimore is choosing what to do from myriad of choices available.  The Russian festival was this weekend which we'd enjoyed a few trips back, along with a long list of other possibilities, more things to see and places to go than time or energy allowed. We decided to check out a puppet show at one of the parks out past the Johns Hopkins campus and then catch the Russian Festival.

Beermobile advertising micro brews in Fell's Point - Beer Week had just ended.

Bats on a building ready for Halloween!

I managed to beat the crowd to the laundry room, and with both breakfast and laundry accomplished, we hiked over to Fell's Point to catch a ride on the free bus system, heading for the Arboretum (our latest choice) which looked to be a reasonable hike from the end of the Purple bus route.  The free bus system, used by both locals and tourists, covers parts of town most visited by tourists.  Road construction, however can play havoc with routes, and it was only after about a 10  minute wait that Leonard saw the message that our stop was currently not in use - on to the next bus stop!

Interesting juxtaposition of tear down, old and modern architecture

Mercury and Atlas perched over an entrance

By the time we got to the end of the line, the sky had numerous clouds and the NW wind had picked up a few notches lending a damp chill to the air making us rethink the advisability of spending much of the day out in the elements.  As we walked past the Baltimore Museum of Art, dropping in for a visit looked to be a  reasonable alternative, offering protection from the weather and the opportunity to soak up some culture.  So we checked it out.  I asked the woman who greeted us at the museum how far it was to the arboretum and was told it wasn't far - that was until she checked.  Eleven minutes by car translated into 3.5 miles which wouldn't include any walking once there.  The museum was free, and became our serendipitous choice for the day.

Baltimore Museum of Art

We had a good time wandering the galleries - like many museums, once you start going through the galleries, each leading into the next, there are more interesting things to see.  The base of  the collection came from the Cone sisters' collection of art (donated by the spinsters  Eta and Claribel Cone) consisting of a wide variety of 19th and 20th century of American and European works, a number of which they purchased directly from the artists before they became famous.  It was interesting to learn Theodore Robinson, a Vermont artist from Hinesburg, was the first piece they purchased.  The museum also has modern and contemporary galleries as well as African and Asian collections.  The special exhibition was an interesting and eclectic pieces by contemporary artists with some very interesting installations.

Interactive contemporary sculpture - viewers can walk inside and see

this view looking up

It was a bit of a surprise to notice Antioch Court, the center courtyard, was wet and we realized some of the clouds must have dropped more than a few drops while we'd been soaking up a dose of culture.  We wandered through a wonderful sculpture garden on the museum grounds before we headed to catch the Purple line back into town.  After missing lunch, it was a treat to spy a cookie shop across the street as we waited for the bus.  They guaranteed delivery of hot cookies until 0300 - it was on the campus of Johns Hopkins.  The cookies were warm and delicious and quickly disappeared.  We all agreed the museum had been an excellent choice. 

Triple Crown Trophies inn the English Sporting Art Gallery

Deeter and Lynnea in the sculpture garden

On the way back we stopped in the Mount Vernon section of town, home to the Washington Monument, commissioned in 1781 and some beautiful churches.  We decided we didn't need to climb the 200 some steps to the top of the Monument, having walked more than a few miles, with more to go before we got back to the boat. 

We didn't escape the rain completely, getting caught in a brief shower as we waited to catch the Green line back to Fell's Point.  It was approaching 1700 by the time we stepped back on board, more than ready to sit down and call it a day.  Once again, we've revisited a place where we've done a lot of exploring in the past and found something new and interesting to see, and had the pleasure of sharing the experience with a friend.  Given the freeze warnings and NW breeze still holding the flags well away from their staffs, we were content to be hunkered down in a protected harbor with the heater going and eat dinner on board. 

George Washington and his horse in Monument Park